_Four of the most unusual Michelin starred restaurants in Europe

by Stefan Chomka

Not all Michelin-starred restaurants are hushed temples of haute cuisine. From street vendors to neighbourhood restaurants, here’s where to head to experience some of the more interesting and unusual places honoured by the red book.

1. The Araki, London

The Araki has the dubious title of being one of London’s priciest restaurants – the set ‘omakase’ menu is £300 per person excluding drinks – so it attracts only true sushi aficionados. Opened by chef Mitsuhiro Araki, who relocated from Tokyo, the restaurant specialises in ‘Edomae sushi’, an authentic style invented 200 years ago that is served by the man himself in the traditional tea ceremony manner. With only nine counter seats, it’s also one of London’s smallest restaurants.

^{Above: Credit Barbara Kaucher}  

2. Heron & Grey, Dublin

You need to book seven months in advance at Heron & Grey, located in Dublin’s Blackrock suburb, such is the popularity of the place. This is partly down to its recently allocated Michelin star, and partly down to the fact that it can only sit 66 people a week. They come to try the brilliant cooking of head chef and co-owner Damien Grey, whose super-seasonal menus and inventive flavour pairings have made this Ireland’s restaurant of the moment.

3. Nathan Outlaw, Cornwall

Chef Nathan Outlaw moved his eponymous fish restaurant from Rock to the Cornish fishing village of Port Isaac a few years back to give himself more space, although you’d hardly know it. With 24 seats in the dining room and a further 12 around a chef’s table, two-Michelin starred restaurants don’t get much more bijou than this. What it lacks in space it makes up for in taste, with Outlaw recognised as one of the UK’s best seafood chefs.

^{Above: Heron & Grey in Dublin}

4. L’Agapé, Paris

L’Agapé takes its name from the Greek word for unconditional or godly love, representing how people regard French gastronomy the world over. Located in Paris’s 17th arrondissement, the intimate restaurant seats around 35 guests and has gained a strong reputation for its inventive cooking that melds French and Asian influences, thanks to Japanese head chef Yoshitaka Takayanagi. For those on a budget, lunch is a good time to go – L’Agapé’s excellent three-course menu.